Watch Selection - P8 by Urban Jürgensen
WORLDTEMPUS - 12 December 2011
This classically beautiful piece of watchmaking only reveals its incredible finesse when the wearer turns the watch over to see a 32 mm movement through a transparent sapphire crystal case back. This view is framed by an ultra-classic 42 mm gold wristwatch, the “face” of which comprises a solid silver dial that has been guilloché by hand.
Just the look of it would not let the observer – even the keen observer – know that this timepiece was made by the low-key marque Urban Jürgensen. Though this is a name that echoes throughout the annals of horological history much like that of Abraham-Louis Breguet and Ulysse Nardin, in modern-day watchmaking it had all but gone to sleep as far as the regular consumer was concerned. Its modern history was revived by Peter Baumberger in 1979, who was part of the era's active Swiss vintage watch scene.
Baumberger and shareholder Dr. Helmut Crott, previous owner of the German auction house of the same name, mainly worked with independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen and the late Derek Pratt in creating some exceptional pieces for the collector's market. Watches marked with the Urban Jürgensen name remained rare and sought-after – and unmarketed.
Launches
Following Baumberger's unexpected passing last year, at Baselworld 2011 Urban Jürgensen revealed a high-caliber project the small company had been working on since 2005: the P8 chronometer. Aided by Jean-François Mojon, the concept of the movement begun by Pratt was to improve rate, performance, and stability. Large, aesthetic Caliber UJS08 contains a world premier: the first serial pivoted detent escapement made for a wristwatch. C.O.S.C.- and Chronofiable-certified, this classically beautiful and wondrously aesthetic piece of watchmaking displays an obviously hacking second hand thanks to a pivoted detent escapement moving it in defined little deadbeat jumps.
Perhaps the only fly in the ointment is that due to the number of high profile launches Voutilainen has been involved in this year, his own new model got a bit lost in the shuffle.
Voutilainen debuted a new in-house movement with his own direct impulse double-wheel escapement and a free-sprung balance, which, according to the Finnish master watchmaker, requires 30-40 percent less energy than a conventional Swiss lever escapement. The two escape wheels providing direct impulse to the balance wheel do not require lubrication. Caliber 28 is manufactured in-house, including the escapement. “My new escapement reminds me of the Natural escapement made by Breguet, but in my case, we have a totally different type of lever between the two escape wheels. I have a patent pending for this lever and the configuration of the escapement,” Voutilainen said at Baselworld. The ultra-rare watch housing this ingenious new movement is called Vingt-8 and its aesthetics are very typical of this reserved watchmaker: classic, proportioned and harmonious. As is the P08 by Urban Jürgensen.
GO TO 2011 SELECTION
Patek Philippe - Splits Time for a Price
WORLDTEMPUS - 12 May 2010
Collectors alert! This is the year of the chronograph for Patek Philippe, who introduced three different proprietary calibers in Basel, all destined to become auction darlings. The brand also charged up its Nautilus line with two new models, a first-ever 18-karat gold case, and a stainless steel model with a grey dial.
Split-second timing
Most notable are two new split-second chronographs, Reference 5950A and Reference 5951P (with perpetual calendar). The 5950A (“A” stands for acier, or steel) is a split-seconds monopusher model outfitted with caliber CHR27-525, the world's thinnest split-seconds chronograph movement with column-wheel control, coming in at just 5.25mm. A separate department was set up in 2003 explicitly to develop this proprietary movement in order to continue cultivating future chronograph calibers. One of its new facets is the continuously running 60-minute counter, which is driven directly by the cannon pinion. The 5951P is based on the same movement and boasts the addition of a perpetual calendar module that adds a mere 2.05 mm in height, adding up to an overall height of just 7.3 mm, making it the thinnest rattrapante chronograph with perpetual calendar ever crafted by Patek Philippe. The 5950A is priced at 440,000 Swiss francs, and the 5951P at 500,000 Swiss francs. Collectors will understand the whopping prices: the unusual cushion shape and rare material of the case—stainless steel is indeed rarely used by the Genevan brand—and the extremely complicated in-house movement.
Collection chronographs
The manually wound chronograph caliber CH 29-535 PS incorporating six patented innovations and numerous technical improvements that pay tribute to modernity was first introduced last November as the Ladies First Chronograph model following five years of development. Coming out in a men's watch at Baselworld as Reference 5170J, it is a classic, yellow gold, 39 mm Calatrava whose appearance is based on a design from the 1940s. This chronograph, which is outfitted with a classic column wheel and a horizontal clutch, comes in at 65,000 Swiss francs.
Also launched at the fair this year was a new version of the Reference 5960P Annual Calendar Chronograph. First introduced in 2006, this timepiece was the first regularly produced chronograph movement developed from the bottom up by Patek Philippe—Caliber CH 28-520 IRM QA 24H—crafted entirely in-house from the movement blank to the finished caliber. It combines two of the most popular horological complications and has ranked among of the manufacture's bestsellers since its introduction. This year it was launched in a second platinum edition, this one with a matte blue sunburst dial instead of the previous silvery grey dial, and is priced at 72,000 Swiss francs.
The Nautilus collection was broadened at the fair, starting with the chronograph, Reference 5980R, which was introduced on a brown leather strap and, for the first time, a gold case (18-karat 5N red gold). Powered by automatic Caliber CH 28-520 C, a column-wheel chronograph movement, it is priced at 49,000 Swiss francs. The final new Baselworld chronograph is a Nautilus: Reference 5980/1A has been redesigned with a charcoal grey dial, which complements the stainless steel case and bracelet. It also contains Caliber CH 28-520 C and is priced at 41,000 Swiss francs.
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Jewellery Co-Axial 34mm Two Tone /Alligator (231.28.34.20.55.001)US$ 279.00
Omega Aqua Terra Chronograph Automatic Black Dial Black Leather Men's Watch 23113435206001US$ 249.00
