Rolex - The Evolution of the Explorer II
WORLDTEMPUS - 2 May 2011
The Rolex Explorer II (reference 1655) – originally only offered with black dial – was produced to meet the needs of cave explorers operating in the dark and not able to tell whether it was day or night. This explains the distinct orange fourth sweep hand on the watch, which indicates AM or PM via the 24-hour bezel. This design was nick-named “freccione” in the 1990s by Italian collectors, which means “big arrow.”
Admittedly, the target group for this watch is rather narrow. One would think that Rolex would at least have taken other groupings of professional explorers that might benefit from this feature into consideration when the Explorer II was originally presented in 1971.
Radical change
Since 1971 the Explorer II has only been updated three times, including this year's relaunch. In 1985, Rolex introduced Reference 16550, which for the first time offered the choice of white or black dial as well as a new movement allowing quick date change and the possibility to set the 24-hour hand to a different time zone. The 16550 also introduced sapphire crystal and an upgraded font engraving on the bezel, and the hands were of a different and subtler design matching other Rolex sport models. Reference 1655's hand design was entirely unique to this reference.
Subtle update
These updated details were repeated when Rolex introduced Reference 16570 in 1989; to a layman's eyes the difference between Reference 16550 with a black dial and Reference 16570 will probably not be visible. The difference between Reference 16550 with a white dial and Reference 16570 is, however, rather obvious. The 16550 white dial version turned creamy due to a fragile coating. Also, the white dial version now had black hands instead of light-colored, white gold hands that actually made it hard to see the time with a light-colored dial in the background.
Faulty frenzy
Faults like the white dial of Reference 16550 turning creamy is, however, something Rolex collectors will pay big bucks for. Rolex today is a watch brand that oozes perfection and conservatism, which is why mishaps like a fragile dial coating is interesting for collectors around the world.
40 becomes 42
References 1655, 16550 and 16570 were all housed in a 40-millimeter case diameter, just like the Rolex GMT-Master, Daytona, Submariner and Sea-Dweller. However the new Explorer II sports a buffed-up 42-millimeter case, making it the biggest of the aforementioned ticking siblings, and 2 millimeters smaller than the Yacht-Master II and DeepSea.
Undoubtedly, many Rolex fans will appreciate the new, larger case, but I wonder if Rolex added the extra 2 millimeters to simply draw attention to the Explorer II, which has been overshadowed for decades by its best-selling siblings in the sports lines.
Of course, we will never know this as Rolex representatives are as tight about the company's watch production as the Oyster cases are about water.
Rebellion - T-1000
After the successful presentation in January of The Predator, their first watch with a round case, Rebellion launched themselves into the creation of a never-before-realized challenge: creating a watch with a power reserve of more than 1,000 hours!
The T-1000 – birth of a challenge
It was in June 2008, after the famous 24 hours of Le Mans car race, in an atmosphere rich with the smell of motor oil and hot engines, that the team at Rebellion thought, "If we can transform these fine-tuned racing thoroughbreds into 24-hour long distance endurance racers, why not do the same with a watch? Why not see just how long the power reserve could be?"
Sporting a body of pure design
The body of the T-1000 was designed in a collaboration of Eric Giroud and Rebellion. The case was developed concurrently with the movement to ensure completely harmonious integration.
There is a sensation of flying as the viewer gazes down through the massive opening to the vertical roller-borne time indications below. Attention then plunges towards 6 o'clock, where the inclined double balance releases the immense power at a precisely controlled rate.
A window in the side of the case reveals one of the mainspring barrels, with markers providing a natural "Fuel Gauge" of the state of the power reserve.
Controlling the power
Housed three on each side of the body are the six mainspring barrels providing T-1000 with its colossal energy reserve. The over-sized winding lever endows the T-1000 with a strong and virile identity as well as an ergonomically tactile pleasure while "filling the tank".
The streamlined downward taper of the case from the centre to 6 o'clock furnishes further evidence of Rebellion's car racing pedigree. A pedigree reinforced by the fact that a patented time-setting clutch activated by a push button in the crown makes setting the time as simple (and as pleasurable) as changing gears.
The three rounded structures each side of the case provide a hint to the complex engineering within, while the innovative architecture of the majestic case is in perfect tune with the demand for exceptional contemporary horology.
A true racing machine
The power reserve of more than 1,000 hours is possible thanks to the six mainspring barrels that provide the T-1000 with its exceptional capacity. In a patented system of energy distribution, six barrels are wound in parallel via a central prop shaft driving two chains, but they discharge in series (2 x 3) to optimize a regular power supply to the regulator. The technical ability behind the realization of this elegant technical solution came directly from Rebellion's long experience in endurance car racing and the Rebellion Racing team.
Technical Specifications
Limited edition : 100 pieces
Calibre : REB T-1000, manual winding with integrated winding lever
Jewels : 14 ceramic & 22 rubies
Balance : double hairspring inclined at 39°
Winding system : Patented system of six mainsprings wound in parallel by chain and prop shaft. The barrels discharge power in series to provide an optimal torque curve.
Indications : hours and minutes displayed on rollers
Power reserve : 1'000+ hours provided by six (2 x 3) vertical mainspring barrels
Power reserve indicator via window to the left central mainspring barrel
Number of components : 693 for the chassis
Balance frequency : 18'000 bph (2.5Hz)
Material : case in titanium and chassis in aluminium
Dimensions : 46,7 mm X 46,9 mm / 19,5 mm
Crown : time-setting mechanism using patented push-button clutch system
Water resistance : 50 metres
Strap : black alligator leather
Buckle : patented folding clasp with micrometric push button regulation allowing easy adjustment of length on the wrist.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Chrono Co-Axial Orange Bezel / Orange Rubber (232.32.46.51.01.001)US$ 298.00
Omega De Ville Prestige Mother of Pearl Dial Stainless Steel Ladies Watch 424.10.27.60.05.001US$ 299.00
Omega Constellation Day-Date 38mm Co-Axial Brushed Red Gold / Diamond (123.55.38.22.02.001)US$ 279.00
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Co-Axial 42mm Red Gold / Diamond Bezel (232.58.42.21.01.001)US$ 288.00
